Why Jodhpur is blue, and what to bring home

People ask two questions in Jodhpur before anything else. Why is it blue, and what should I buy. Here are the honest answers to both.

Why the city is blue

There is no single agreed reason, which is part of the fun. Three explanations get repeated and each has something to it.

• Caste and custom. The old story is that Brahmin families painted their houses blue to mark them out, and neighbours followed. The densest blue is still in the older Brahmin quarters near the fort, which supports the idea.
• Insects and lime. Limewash mixed with copper sulphate and indigo gives a blue tone and helps keep termites out of the plaster. In a dry climate with old stone and wood, that mattered.
• Heat. Residents will tell you a blue house stays cooler, and after an afternoon in a blue lane you will believe them.

Whatever started it, the colour is maintained today because it is beautiful and because it brings visitors. Houses are repainted by hand, and the shade varies from wall to wall, which is why photographs never quite capture it.

The culture around it

Jodhpur is the heart of Marwar, and the region has its own language, food, dress and music. A few things you will notice:

• The safa. The turban is tied differently by community and occasion, and the colours carry meaning, from wedding pinks to festival oranges.
• Folk music. Manganiyar and Langa musicians have played for patron families for generations. If you can hear a live performance at the fort, take the chance.
• Horses and polo. The Marwari horse, with its inward curving ears, is bred here, and Jodhpur gave its name to the riding trousers.
• Puppetry and dance. Kathputli string puppets and the ghoomar dance both come from this region and still appear at festivals.

What the city makes

Bandhej

Tie dye, done by tying thousands of tiny points in cloth before dyeing. Look at the density of the dots and the crispness of the colour boundaries. A fine bandhej dupatta takes days of work and the price reflects it.

Block printed cotton

Hand carved wooden blocks stamped in repeat. On a hand printed piece you can find small irregularities where blocks meet. On a machine print you will not. Hold the cloth to the light and look at the back, a real print soaks through.

Durries

Flat woven cotton and wool rugs from villages like Salawas, in geometric patterns. Buy from a workshop if you can, ask how long the piece took, and check the edges are evenly finished.

Antique and reproduction furniture

Jodhpur is one of India's biggest centres for carved and painted wooden furniture, most of it exported. Shipping is normal here and dealers will quote you a door to door price.

Lac bangles, silver and juttis

Bangles made from coloured lac are shaped over heat in front of you. Silver is sold by weight plus making charges, so ask for both numbers. Juttis, the flat leather shoes, need a day or two to soften, so size them snugly rather than loose.

Spices

Mathania red chilli, cumin and blends for tea and garam masala. For carrying abroad, buy sealed packets rather than loose weight.

Where to go

• Sardar Market and the lanes around the clock tower for spices, bangles, textiles and everyday things.
• Nai Sarak for cloth and readymade clothing.
• Tripolia Bazaar and the streets running off it for handicrafts, metalwork and furniture.
• The Mehrangarh museum shop for well made textiles and books at fixed prices, useful as a quality benchmark before you bargain elsewhere.
• Village workshops at Salawas and around the Bishnoi settlements, covered in our day trips guide.

A note on respect

The blue lanes are homes, not a film set. Ask before photographing people, especially women and children, accept a no without pushing, and keep your voice down early in the morning. Almost everyone says yes if you ask, and the tea you get invited to afterwards is the best part of the day.