Mehrangarh fort, how to see it properly

Mehrangarh is the reason most people come to Jodhpur, and it is one of the best kept forts in India. It is also large, hot in the afternoon, and easy to rush. Here is how to see it without missing the good parts.

The short history

Rao Jodha moved his capital here in 1459 and built the first walls on this rock. Later rulers of Marwar kept adding palaces inside, which is why the fort holds several centuries of building styles in one place. It has never been taken by an enemy in a way that emptied it, so the interiors survived and are now run as a museum by a trust rather than a government department. That shows in how it is kept.

Timings, tickets and the audio guide

The fort generally opens around nine in the morning and closes in the late afternoon, with last entry before closing. Tickets are sold at the entrance and separately for the museum and extras like the zip line. Prices and hours change, so check the official Mehrangarh website the week you travel.

Take the audio guide. It is included with most tickets, it is well written, and it lets you sit down whenever you want instead of following a group.

Getting up to the gate

You can walk up from the old city, which is steep and takes about twenty minutes, or take a cab or auto to the top gate. There is also a lift inside the fort for visitors who need it, which makes most of the museum accessible.

The route through the fort

The gates

You enter through a series of gates built at angles, so attacking elephants could never get a straight run at them. Look for the iron spikes on Loha Pol, set at elephant head height, and the small handprints beside it left by royal widows on their way to the funeral pyre. It is a quiet, difficult detail that most people walk past.

The courtyards and palaces

• Shringar Chowk. The coronation courtyard, with the marble seat where rulers of Marwar were crowned.
• Moti Mahal. The pearl palace, a hall of audience with coloured glass windows and a ceiling worth standing still for.
• Phool Mahal. The most decorated room in the fort, gold leaf, painted panels and portraits, built as a pleasure hall.
• Sheesh Mahal. Mirror work across the walls and ceiling.
• Takhat Vilas. A ruler's private room with painted walls and Christmas ball ornaments hanging from the ceiling, a mid nineteenth century import.
• Zenana Deodi. The women's quarters, with latticed stone screens that let the court see out without being seen.

The collections

The Daulat Khana holds palanquins, elephant howdahs, cradles, textiles, miniature paintings and one of the better arms galleries in the country. Give it more time than you think you will need.

The ramparts

Walk out to the cannons on the north and east walls. This is where the blue city spreads out below and where the wind finally reaches you. Early morning is best for photographs, late afternoon for warm light on the walls.

What most visitors miss

• Chamunda Mata temple at the southern end, still an active place of worship with a view down the other side of the rock.
• Chokelao Bagh, an eighteenth century garden restored below the walls, usually almost empty.
• Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park, whose entrance sits near the fort road, with walking trails through native desert plants.
• The museum shop, which stocks well made textiles and books rather than the usual souvenirs.

Practical notes

• Go on a weekday if you can. Weekends and public holidays are much busier.
• Wear real shoes. The stone ramps are uneven and polished smooth in places.
• Carry water. There are cafes inside but the walk between them is long.
• Photography is allowed in most areas, with a separate rule for video in some galleries. Signs are clear.
• If you want the fort at its emptiest, be at the gate when it opens, then have breakfast afterwards.

After the fort, Jaswant Thada is a ten minute drive and takes twenty minutes to see. Both are covered in our list of things to do in Jodhpur.